How To Train Your Bow

How do you train your bow? If you’re a long-time archer, this may not be a question you put much thought into. However, if you’re a novice or looking to get into the sport for the first time training your bow can be a chore. Especially if you don’t have the budget to buy all new equipment and have a professional set your bow up for you. But, like with anything else, there is always a cheaper way if you really put some brainpower into finding it.

If you go to any of the major retailers or smaller pro shops you’ll no doubt find rack after rack of equipment waiting for a trip afield. As you stroll through the isle you will see vastly different camo patterns and configurations. There will no doubt be something that will catch your eye, simply through visual grace or masculine bad-ass appeal. Then you move in and flip the price tag over, only to find your hopes dashed on the rocks.

And why wouldn’t you nearly run and scream when you see some of those price tags? Some bows on the market are fetching more than a thousand dollars. Then you still have the added expense of accessories and arrows. Before you know it our beloved sport of bow hunting and archery will be washed away, replaced only with empty afternoons and autumn evenings wishing you had a bow. But it doesn’t have to be this way.

I’ve encountered a number of people who go to flea markets and yard sales in search of a used bow, only to be disappointed by the performance. Once that disappointment sets in they are quick to abandon the sport. Which is a true shame as bow season allows for a very quiet and enjoyable time in the woods. Not to mention weekend afternoons that are challenging and good for your soul. It’s no wonder people who love their bows really love their bows.

So here’s a few pointers for the folks out there who have never picked up a bow. Archery is among the most fascinating sports if you take the time to develop your skill. It all starts with deciding to purchase your bow. This can be among the most daunting task, and yet the most simple. For years the competition has been fierce among bow manufacturers, which has left the public with a veritable mountain of used archery options.

When facing this mountain you realize picking the right used bow is like playing a game of Tetris. You can’t just buy anything. First, figure your price range. Bows tend to be like cars and computers. If you buy something too modern you may as well shell out the little extra and get something brand new and properly outfitted. If your budget is significantly lower you’ll end up getting a piece of equipment which may not have parts available to make adjustments.

For example, I recently acquired an XI Legacy, which was a bow I had fallen in love with in the mid 90’s. I nearly tore the pocket out of my pants when I saw this long-desired gem at my local flea market. This was total impulse-buy stupidity as I got home and found that not only did it not fit me, but none of my local sources had the modules to make it fit me. I ended up getting lucky after two months of intense searching on ebay. Moral of the story, make sure the bow you are buying fits you as close to perfectly as possible.

What’s a perfect fitting bow? Basically, you should be able to draw it with only the strength in your arm. It shouldn’t be so heavy that you need to flex, grunt, lurch, lunge, or struggle to bring it to full draw. You want a fluid, smooth, easy motion. When you get the bow to full draw you should be able to simulate touching your index finger to the corner of your mouth, yet the arm holding the bow should be slightly bent. You also want to make sure your back is straight and you able to hold the bow without excess shaking. If you can manage all that, then you probably have a used bow that is a good fit for you.

When you find a bow that fits you there is the task of making sure it is in fact a safe and reliable shooter. There are a few things to look for. First, make sure to check the limbs. You are looking for cracks, slinters, or separations. If you see any of these anomalies, you need to walk away. The scary part about an issue of this nature is they may not get worse they could simply fail. That’s it, one second you’re shooting and the next your bow is turning into splinters.

Next, check the strings. You want to examine them for tears or weaker looking spots. You’ll also want to look at the serving near the knock point and around the cams. The serving is the areas of the strings wrapped in a thread or monofilament. Newer used bows will often have regular serving but older ones will use monofilament. The older mono serving has a tendency to burst suddenly and completely unravel when broken. That’s not to say these older bows don’t work well, but I would plan to have this monofilament serving replaced as soon as possible.

Should the strings be in questionable shape its not to automatically say the bow is a bad deal. Ultimately that is your call to make. However, its not a bad idea to have an idea of what you’ll invest in a new pair of strings and cables. The last time I had a full set of strings and cables replaced the cost was about one-hundred and fifty dollars. In my circumstance it was a reasonable price, but I still wasn’t prepared to shell out that kind of dough.

With the cables and strings in good order it is time to check if the bow functions. When you draw the bow you should be able to get the string back with just the strength in your draw arm. This means you hold the bow out and draw the string back without shrugging your shoulders, turning your head, and your bow arm should be slightly bent. When your index finger is situated in place you should not be able to more the string any more. It should be rock solid. This is called the wall.

If there is any give in the string at this point it means the cables have stretched and the cams or wheels are not turning at the exact same time. This is known as the timing of the bow. Basically, a spongy wall often equates to the cams being out of time. It is very important both cams or wheels turn at the same time. If they do not, your bow will suffer in regards to speed, energy, and accuracy.  Often times the bow will begin to pull one way or the other as the cams or wheels fall further out of time.

No matter the condition of the bow you purchase, it should have an appointment with your local bow-doctor. This will be a small investment to make sure the cams are timed and other tuning details are attended to. You can also have your bow-doctor set a knock point, tie in a peep sight, and affix a kisser button for you. All these are crucial elements and not so easy to do without a bow press and serving thread. You’ll also be able to have the draw weight checked so you’ll be able to make a better decision as to arrow purchase. If your weight and arrow size are off in one way or the other you could damage your bow and lose accuracy. Now that you’ve had your new bow professionally inspected it’s time to start setting it up.

Let’s start by tuning our rest. I use to be a fan of paper tuning, but was taught how to use a method called walk back tuning. This was a method shown to me Keith Weaver, from Weaver’s Archery in Kreamer, Pennsylvania. On his Website, Keith says “Get a quick reading of your zero by getting your top pin close. Using that pin fire 1-3 arrows from 10, 20 and 30 yards or farther if you have the room. If your arrows stray right, move your rest left or vice versa until all your arrows make a vertical line. That’s it, it’s done. You are now ready to get your pin settings from shortest to longest and your pins will stay in a vertical line because the bow is responding to your style of shooting. In some areas there may be room for improvement but it will come with time.”

Sighting in your bow is a reasonably easy task. Set your distance, set your sight. Most modern sights have a circular gurad which is also designed to fill the circular apature of the peep sight. This enables the shooter to center the entire sight in the peep sight instead of a single pin. This allows from more consistency which will foster more accuracy. When your technique is established you simply need to move your sight pin in the opposite direction as from which your arrow hits. Be patient and dial your pins in to nearly knock-splitting accuracy.

With regards to arrows, as I am always and forever will and able to save a penny wherever I can I do not advocate for the use of used arrows. You’ll get far more accuracy out of new arrows and they are not as pricey to acquire if you watch your major retailers for post-season sales. Used arrows can also have been abused, which you wouldn’t otherwise know about and could be a safety risk. That being said, I have a collection of used arrows purely for hunting squirrels and other defenseless critters where arrow recovery is a virtual impossibility.

When choosing a release you’ll want to make sure you get something appropriate in size. If your release is too long you are guaranteed to flinch on every shot you make. A release is a piece of equipment that can be easily purchased almost anywhere. Despite popular belief, you don’t need the most expensive one you can find. They are a fairly simple affair and unless you are doing some high-end tournament shooting you’ll really only need the basic model. As you improve and invest more money into your bowhunting rig you can spend some extra change on a top-of-the-line release.

The stabilizer is another absolutely essential piece of gear that is usually heinously overpriced. This is another of the traps I see so many novice archers fall into. Through scowering eBay you can find a perfectly functional stabilizer that will improve the performance of your bow without landing you in divorce Court. For the purposes of hunting I would recommend an eight inch-ish model. I prefer the hydraulic stabilizers, which use some form of fluid to absorb the shock of your bow. However, the newer LimbSaver models work very well and are not as high priced as the more fancy models I so often see.

The quiver is a fairly important item. The quiver on a bow can make or break the success of the hunt. First, the longest raining champion in the world of quivers is the Kwikee Kwiver. They’ve been around forever and have been tested on virtually all bows and in all conditions. Their economically priced and very user friendly. They’re also quiet and can be adapted to accommodate most any size arrow.

When choosing a quiver you want a unit that is quiet. When you have your quiver attached and outfitted with arrows you should use the palm of your hand to bang on your bow a few times. You shouldn’t hear anything more than a dull thud of your palm hitting the limb. If you hear any rattling, chattering, or clunking it will be time to return to the drawing board and begin tightening things down. You make even need to go as far as to get some rubber or felt from your local crat store to reduce any hard surface contact that would cause a noise when the bow is fired.

I have a habit in setting up my quiver that is somewhat controversial. I have a theory that you can change the performance of your bow by either taking your quiver off or leaving it on the bow. I tend to leave my quiver on the bow while stalking and in the stand. When I tune and sight in my bow I do it with a full quiver minus one arrow that I would be shooting in a hunting scenario. This allows for a consistent balance which will enable me to make a solid shot when one is presented to me.

Now that your bow is set up it is time to work on your form. As a novice archer there are  many of mistakes I’ve seen people make over the years. Arguably, footing is the most common issue people have in developing their form. I adapt a leading-trailing footing, with my forward foot slightly pointed towards my target and my rear foot pointing in the same direction I am facing. Establish your footing before you raise your bow so you are well adjusted and stable. Now bring the bow up to your eye level, and don’t lower your head to the bow. You should be able to smoothly draw your bow and situate your kisser button to the corner of your mouth.

At this point you’ll find shooting your bow is roughly the same as shooting a rifle. You shouldn’t put your finger on the trigger until you’re ready to make your shot. When making that shot it is important to gently squeeze the trigger. When the trigger is pulled you should flow with your bow, also known as follow-through. I’ve trained myself over the years to shoot with one eye open and the other slightly open. This allows me to track the arrow as it makes its journey to the target.

Now you’re set up and slinging arrows down the range. This is the time you must practice, practice, practice, and practice some more. I referenced tetris early in making a used bow purchase. Well, shooting the used bow is little different. Every bow, arrow, rest, release, shooter, sight, stabilizer, tree-stand, logging trail, broadhead, and windy day will shoot differently in any combination. If you’re going to be a successful hunter or shooter in general it is beyond important you shoot often and get to know your equipment. Remember, it is our duty as hunters to not leave an animal limping through the woods because of a careless shot.

So, with this knowledge in mind, I encourage all you novice archers to take to yard sales and flea markets to make your first bow purchase. I hope you’ll use my article as a base for further research and expand on your interest so you’ll have many delightful afternoons slinging arrows in your back yard. While you are at it, don’t forget to take a kid shooting. In the words of dear Mr. Keith Weaver, “Shoot straight and shoot often.”

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